To say that Cesar Manrique is an institution on Lanzarote would be something of an understatement - it's a bit like saying Real Madrid is the best football team in Spain outside Barcelona!
Not only is Manrique's influence to be seen everywhere you travel on the island now, his life-long passion for Lanzarote, its architecture, geology and volcanic history has probably contributed more to the island's development than can be claimed by any one individual since the island's modern founding in 1402 by the Normans under Jean de Bethancourt.
No visit to Lanzarote is complete (or even possible) without coming across at least some of Manrique's work, so this article aims to give you the lowdown on 'all things Manrique'. Take it with you when you next visit Lanzarote, and make sure you visit some, if not all, of these great cultural venues.
Parque Nacional de Timanfaya
Whilst Manrique cannot lay claim to the natural art of the Lanzarote landscape created by the volcanic eruptions of the 18th Century, he was instrumental in having the area around Timanfaya (Fire Mountain) area designated as a National Park. He also designed the current Visitor Centre/restaurant that features panoramic views, along with a barbecue that is heated by the still bubbling volcano and hot earth some 6 metres below the surface.
Mirador del Rio
The word Mirador means look out, or view, or vantage point; the Mirador del Rio is situated at the northernmost tip of the island, about as high above sea level as it is possible to be without being on a cloud. Manrique was responsible for the 1973 conversion of the site from what was previously an artillery store. The Mirador del Rio is a spectacular viewing point, hewn out of cliff face, some 600 metres up in the air. It looks down, as if from the cockpit of a plane, on the neighbouring island of La Graciosa and the chinijo (or 'child islands') of Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roques Del Este and Oeste.
In addition to outdoor viewing points on three levels, there is a restaurant with a semi circular window looking North to the neighbouring islands, and a souvenir shop.
Jardin de Cactus
Cesar Manrique was well known for his projects based around the natural form and history of Lanzarote, and the Jardin de Cactus is his monument to this range of plants that thrive so well in their natural state on the island. Manrique also chose to position the Cactus Garden in the town of Guatiza, an area surrounded by cactus fields that were traditionally used to cultivate the cochineal beetle for their red dye. This used to be big business for Lanzarote, before the advent of modern dyes.
The cactus garden is laid out within a pit in the ground that dates back to 1850. There are now nearly 10,000 cactus plants within the garden, and over 1,400 species of cactus. The planted gardens are interspersed with walkways, there is a cafe/bar serving light refreshments, and a souvenir shop.
Cesar Manrique Fundacion
The Fundacion is on the site of Manrique's former home in Tahiche, where he lived from 1968 to 1987. The house is built within 5 inter-connected lava bubbles in the ground which together create magnificent outdoor and indoor living space of some 1,500 square metres. There is also a large museum housing many of Manrique's paintings, sculptures and ceramics. The Fundacion is a very peaceful and serene place to absorb and admire the creative genius that was Cesar Manrique. The artist himself is said to have considered the foundation as the emblem of his life's work.
Los Jameos del Aqua
The Jameos del Aqua were created from a volcanic eruption in prehistoric times, and forms part of a large and complex infrastructure of caves in the North of Lanzarote. Cesar Manrique's involvement here was in the design, ideas and planning of restaurant and concert areas within the caves, as well as some of the floral and planting installations that are there now. There is also another cave system, the Cueva de Los Verdes that starts only a short walk away, so its worth doing both visits together - allow up to 3 hours for both.
And finally, of course, on our 'all things Manrique' tour, there are those roundabout 'Mobiles'..
Variously referred to as 'mobiles' or even 'thingys', these are pieces of art sculpture positioned in the centre of roundabouts across Lanzarote. They can best be summarised as very clever pieces of engineering (another skill of Cesar Manrique) that usually move in the wind (thus being in harmony with another big feature of life and the weather on Lanzarote), and have been influenced to a greater or lesser degree by the modern school of artists and sculptors.
Most people say they grow on you, and even more say that after many years, they still haven't got a clue what they are about. But you do have to look at them and marvel at the combined skills in physics, art, sculpture, engineering and conceptualisation that created them. Perhaps that, in a nutshell, describes the varied genius that was Cesar Manrique.
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